Day 14 – 20 September 2025 – Porto Salvo to Messina.

Sep 20, 2025 | Pisa to Sicily

61 miles ridden – 1333m climbed – Temperature 32C.

Today was brutal. It was hot, very little cooling breeze and lots of climbing. Within half a mile of the hotel we started a 9 mile category red (Garmin) climb. It was relentless at 5-8% and although we missed the worst heat of the day it was still about 24C. Of course once you reach the top there is a downhill to enjoy – if you can! I was so sweaty that the wind chill from the downhill was a little uncomfortable. The descent went through some really nice countryside and included about a mile on a tiny debris covered track. By the time we reached coffee in Rosarno I had emptied both my water bottles and in addition to a coke I drank an additional full water bottle – that’s 2.5 litres in total.

From coffee it was about 8 miles to the next climb which appeared on paper to be easier than the first one. Problem is – to paraphrase Brian Clough – we were riding on paper we were riding on hot sunny roads. It just seemed to go on for ever and although we all made it up many riders suffered during the ride – I just ran out of energy and dehydrated slightly despite drinking another 1.5 litres of water – and a few after we arrived at the hotel where it seems a couple of our group are suffering from a touch of heatstroke.

Once we started our long steep descent went stopped in a village called Ceramida for a rest, more water, coke, coffee (need that caffeine rush) and food. It really pepped us up for what was a demanding 5 mile descent into Bagnara Calabra.

Once down at sea level we followed a low level cliff-hugging road to the ferry and got our first clear view of Sicily.

We arrived in Villa San Giovanni just in time to catch the 3pm ferry over to Messina. It didn’t get us out of the sun but we did cool down in the sea breeze.

We then travelled in convoy through the streets of Messina to our hotel which thankfully is very nice and has brilliant air conditioning. By the time I was showered I had drunk another litre of water, an electrolyte drink and a recovery sachet and had got my breath back. Then I needed to eat many nice restaurants don’t open much before 7:30pm so on a needs must basis I went to McDonalds and then once the nice restaurants started to open went out for meatballs and pizza. I feel absolutely stuffed but human again. I drank another litre of fluid over dinner so I’ve drunk at least 7 litres of fluid today – it will be interesting to see if I get up in the night to pee!

Tomorrow is our final day with 66 miles of coastal road between here and our hotel in Catania.

3 Comments

  1. Judith

    Im exhausted just from reading this – well done you ! Quite a journey!

    Enjoy Sicily – look out for our neighbours- they are there to too x

    Reply
    • nickpannaman

      Thanks Judith.

      Reply
  2. Caroline Byles

    Nick John and I also took the ferry San Giovanni to Messina but we did it by train. It’s been incredibly hot for us and we haven’t been cycling! Caroline

    Reply

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